Design Art and Photography

By Pooja Agarwal

Vicenza, Italy—Italian jewelry designers have long taken a center-stage role in reinterpreting the world of luxury, and buyers from all over the world faithfully continue to tap in.

At this year’s Vicenzaoro Autumn edition, held in Vicenza, Italy, from Sept. 15 to 19, the designs were out in big, bold style, with yellow gold taking the lead as the metal of choice, and pink gold following at a close second.

Florence-based designer Orlando Orlandini, whose atelier is famed for its modern jewelry crafted using Old World techniques, was among those showcasing new designs, including the latest versions of the company’s “Rugiada” and “Sole” collections.

“While still maintaining our characteristic jewelry—light, soft, wearable—we introduced to our American customers impressive geometric-shaped pieces with a big look and significant movement within the piece,” said designer Paladino Orlandini, son of Orlando Orlandini.

Adding a sense of movement and fluidity to jewelry design appears to be among the season’s most compelling trends.

Colored gemstones and black and brown diamonds in combination with white diamonds were additional designer trends at the show.

Zydo, whose jewels are distributed in the United States by New York-based IJA, has lately crafted diamond designs that are a bit atypical.

“We did pieces using fancy-shaped diamonds like marquise, princess and hearts,” said Davide Zybert, founder of Zydo. “Especially for the United States, we introduced these autumn colorful rings with various colors of sapphires. This was a big hit.”

For Bonato Oliviero Gioielli, big colored gemstones—green amethyst, citrine and rhodolite—set in pink gold spoke volumes for the company, which owner and chief executive officer Bonato Oliviero attributes in part to a revival of 1940s style.

“The buyers of high-end jewelry, such as Cellini [Jewelers]—which has three boutiques in New York—Gragg from Houston and Fran Lippy [Jewelers] from [Livingston] New Jersey, shopped for these goods,” Oliviero said.

Italian company Picchiotti reported strong buyer interest in colored diamonds and gemstones as well.

“In our ‘Star Collection,’ the U.S. customers picked combinations of black and white diamonds, which is something new for our company,” said owner Giuseppe Picchiotti. “We also did well with top-quality Colombian emerald and Burmese ruby set in the hot metals: platinum and yellow gold.”

Centoventuno also garnered U.S. interest in new color combinations, with the company’s collection of black and brown diamonds in pink gold generating buzz.

Roberto Coin presented bold designs with textured gold finishing on the jewels.

“We have made a lot of jewelry in pink gold,” said owner Roberto Coin. “This is unique and a new introduction into the U.S. market, where we would normally sell white gold and diamonds well.”

Several of Roberto Coin’s top U.S. clients, including Saks and Bailey Banks and Biddle, were flown into Italy for the show. In addition to viewing the designer’s latest baubles, the retailers took in the launch of the brand’s new advertising campaign featuring model Christy Turlington Burns.